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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred names. But, situated near the top among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu found in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. The accolade has left the owners totally surprised.

“I’m completely shocked,” remarks a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their humble place earning such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its original feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the fare, and this establishment definitely delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender consistency.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

It is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo beyond its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this gastronomic honour.